Archive for the ‘Tips & How To’ Category

Fashion “Tulle’s” for the Fashion Forward

Tuesday, May 7th, 2013

By Mariangela Abeo

Gone are the days of going shopping with your mom to the local department store for a prom dress, then hoping and praying that no other girls show up wearing the same thing.  Today’s teens are steeped in the rich fashion molasses that is served to them on everything, everywhere they turn.  From social media, to reality TV, they are on the new fads before even the hipsters have time to make them cool and before a teen celebrity can been seen in it on Instagram or on TMZ.

The 80s look that so many in my generation loved and cherish, are back – everything from floral and lace, to vibrant colors, punk rock accents and yes, you guessed it – TULLE.  The fabric that every girl, and yes also boys – at some point in their life, secretly want an entire outfit made out of.

Whether you shop at hip boutiques and consignment shops or mega trendy places like H&M or Forever 21 – pairing tulle tutus and skirts for every day looks, school dances and even Prom – is easy and simple.

For Prom or Punk

For example, a Prom show stopper will have flowing tulle, paired with tasteful corsets, lacy tops, tussled hair, and a pretty smokey eye.

Romantic-Tutu-for-Fashion-with-Corset

Model: Madison Abeo / Photo: Bamberg Fine Art Photography / Tutu: Class Act Tutu's Color Layered Tutu in Black/Teal/Periwinkle

The punk element is one of the reasons shops like Red Light or Trendy Wendy – which we are lucky enough to have in Seattle – are popular – you can find fabulous tops and funky tights to pair with one of Class Act’s 5-layer “Juicy” Bird of Paradise short tutus.  If you aren’t in the Seattle area, find a local vintage or consignment store and a trendy boutique to get necessary outfit pairings.  Big “diva” hair is a must, take your skirt colors to your local MAC counter to get your make-up done – and finish with some FIERCE heels or even grunge it out with some army boots from the Army surplus store!

Tutu-Grunge-Funky-Punk

Model: Madison Abeo / Photo: Bamberg Fine Art Photography / Tutu: Class Act Tutu's Color-Layered Tutu Skirt "Bird of Paradise" in the "Juicy" style

Who wore it better? (It won’t happen!)

The wonderful thing about tutus beside the fact that they are handmade, and that tulle personally makes me morph into a 5 year old that squeals with joy even at the sight of it – are that they are unique.  You will not feel like you are in People magazine’s “Who wore it better” because another girl is wearing the same dress.  If you pair it with your street wear, you will be SURE to turn heads, get compliments and be considered a trend setter with peers that may be waiting for someone to stand out before they add a little tulle into their daily wardrobe.

It’s good for the soul

I asked a few “fashion forward” teens I know, to tell me 3 words that came to mind when they saw tulle in a store or in a magazine – and the theme was consistent: Playful, Fun, Delicate,  Feminine, Beauty, Classy, Diva.  All things all of us, at some point, want to portray with our outfits, right?  Even more reason for me to firmly believe that keeping a good amount of tulle in your closet, is good for the soul…

Romantic-Tutu-Prom-Fashion

Model: Madison Abeo / Photo: Bamberg Fine Art Photography / Tutu: Class Act Tutu's Romantic Tutu Skirt in Soft White / Leotard: Vala Dancewear's "Enchant

Special thanks to Kim and Adam Bamberg of LaVie Photography and Bamberg Fine Art Photography and Oliver Wevers for sharing his lovely home!

Quick Tips: Threading Your Needles

Thursday, August 23rd, 2012

Threading a Needle

As we approach the Nutcracker Season, those of us that have ANYTHING to do with costumes, think about any way we can save time.  Whether you are hand stitching, embellishing, or tacking a tutu, you need to thread a needle.  Here are some ideas to make that task both faster and easier.

Thread Multiple Needles

Approach  your hand stitching “assembly line” manner by grouping threading your needles.  This way you do not have to stop to re-thread.

Put White Behind the Needle

White behind the needle make the eye much more visible.  Keep a small piece of white paper or index card handy to place behind the eye of the needle.

Cut Your Thread with Sharp Scissors at an Angle

A clean cut thread cut at an angle is easier to get through the eye of a needle.

Stiffen the Thread

Use bees wax to stiffen your thread.  It will be so much easier to control.

Use a Tweezer

Those long, bent handle tweezers that are used for serger threading can work great to hold the thread while threading any needle.

We would LOVE to hear from you if you have any tips to share.  Just contact us!

Finally, here are some past posts you may enjoy:

Tacking Your Tutu – Parts 1 through 4

At Class Act Tutu we specialize in getting you professional quality tutus in many colors and styles.

We love providing made-to-order tutus that you can embellish.  Check out our “How to Order Your Tutus” page for some step by step instructions on getting just the ballet costumes that you want.

Don’t forget to take advantage of our Nutcracker Ballet Early Order and Volume Discounts.

Tutus for a Princess

Tuesday, July 31st, 2012

At Class Act Tutu, we have had a run of requests for tutus inspired by Disney characters.  From “Belle” (Beauty and the Beast) to The “Queen of Hearts” (Alice in Wonderland), we have come up with some simple and cost saving solutions for the perfect tutu for your Princess!  Here are just some of our ideas…

Disney Princesses

Tutus for Snow White, Alice & The Queen of Hearts

Use Colors

Start with a basic bodice and add color blocking.  For our Queen of Hearts, we used a Black Sweetheart style Tutu Bodice with Red Center Front Panels and Red Cording.

Queen of Hearts Tutu
Queen of Hearts Tutu

Add Some Options

Add Arm Puffs and “Petals” (like our “Queen of Hearts” tutu above) or Sleeves (Yellow for our “Snow White” tutu below).

We added a Lace-up Front and a Bow to our Scoop Neck Tutu Bodice , some lace trimming and an Apron to finish off that “Snow White” look.

Snow White Tutu

Snow White Tutu

Play with Color Layers in your Tutu Skirt

All of these designs feature our Romantic Style Tutu Skirt.  You can get a “petticoat” look by using several layers of color (yellow for Snow White, blue for “Alice”) on top of 2 layers of white.

It’s amazing what you can do a lot with a few options and some color, don’t you agree?

If you would like some design assistance for this or any of our other tutus, please do not hesitate to CONTACT US.

Tacking Your Tutu Part 4: Your Hoop

Monday, September 5th, 2011

Welcome to Part 4 in our series on Tacking Your Tutu.

In this post, we want to talk a bit about the hoop layer.  What is hooping?  Where do I find hooping?  How do I hoop my tutu?

What is Hooping?

“Hooping” is a stiff wire or plastic inserted into one of the  layers of your tutu.  Hooping your tutu helps to keep the classical tutu flat and stiff.  This gets you the flat, “pancake” look and aids in keeping your tutus’ shape even with heavy embellishment or after years of wear.

(If you need a review on the different tutu styles, you can take a look on our “History of the Tutu” under the “Tutu Styles” section.)

Where Can I Get the Supplies?

Hoop wire  can be found from corset-making suppliers such as Richard the Thread (California, USA) or Farthingales (Ontario, Canada).   The hoop wire that we prefer is made of steel and is actually two metal wires covered with either plastic or fabric.  This tutorial shows the plastic coated type.

Preparing the Hoop Wire

For most classical tutu skirts, we split our wire into two strips.  Here is what the wire looks like when it is intact:

Plastic Covered Hoop Wire

Plastic Covered Hoop Wire

Here is how we split it:

Splitting Hoop Wire

Splitting Hoop Wire

Cut a length of hoop wire long enough to fit into your tutus’ hoop casing plus at least 8 inches.  If you are working with a white tutu, you are done.  Skip ahead to “Inserting Your Hoop Wire”.

Hiding Your Hoop Wire

When working on a colored tutu, our favorite method of hiding the hoop wire is to cover it with a satin ribbon.  This is much less messy and less toxic than painting the wire casing.  In addition,  the satin helps the hoop to slide easily through your tutus’ hoop casing.  We use a one inch wide ribbon to cover our split hoop wire.  Fold the ribbon inf half and stitch close to the edge:

Preparing the Ribbon Casing

Preparing the Ribbon Casing

Insert your  hoop wire into the ribbon casing:

Inserting Wire Into Casing

Inserting Wire Into Casing

Inserting Your Hoop Wire

You are now ready to insert your  hoop wire into your tutus’ hoop casing.

  • Insert wire into the casing on your tutu.
  • Carefully pull out your ruffle so that it is straight and even.  (Strait out like the spokes of a wheel.)
  • Tack into place.

This black and white example shows clearly the hoop inserted into the casing and tacked to the lower (black) layers.  Note how the ruffle just under the hoop layer extends past the hooping and help hides it.

Hooping Inserted

Hooping Inserted

We secure our hoop wire by overlapping  at least 8 inches in the back and securing with clear packing tape.  Tape the center of the overlapped section and over each end.  You can tape right on top of the ribbon or, for a nicer finish, you can tape the wire and pull the ribbon over the taped portion to hide the tape.

We hope you are enjoying our tutu tips!  Keep watching for more.

If you have tutu tacking tips (or ANY tips at all) that you would like to share, let us know!

Tacking Your Tutu Part 3: Step by Step

Sunday, August 28th, 2011

This is Part 3 in a series on Tacking Your Tutu. In Part 1, we talked about preparing your tutu for tacking. In Part 2, we introduced our favorite time-saving tool, the “Tagging Gun”.  We  explained the tools, where to find them, and how to get them ready. In this post we are going to take you step by step through one way of tacking a classical or bell tutu. We really want to emphasize that this is merely one way of tacking.

How you tack involves:

  • your choice of hand tacking or tag tacking,
  • the size of your tack,
  • how many layers of the tutu that you include in each tack and
  • how closely you place your tacks.

How you tack determines a large part of how your finished tutu will look. For example, using a short tack (1 inch) and tacking 3 tutu layers at a time, results in a tight, flat look (good for that “pancake” style). If you use a 2-3 inch tack, you will get a looser, fluffier look (good for a bell or “powder puff” style). We encourage you have fun trying different techniques. In this example, we are using a tagging gun.  Don’t worry! We will get to hand tacking in the future.

The Supplies

• A tagging gun.
• Fine tags to match your tutu color.
• Elastic to tie up your tutu layers.

Tacking Your Tutu

1. Turn your tutu top side up. Gather up all but the bottom 2-3 rows and secure with elastic.

Tied up Tutu

Tied up Tutu

2. Check your tutu layers and make sure that they are alignment straight out from your panty (like the spokes of a wheel).
3. Point the tagging gun down and “shoot” the tag through all layers.  Be careful that you are catching just one layer of each of the ruffles.  HINT:  Pointing your gun downward for all of the lower layers results in the smallest side of the tag visible.

Tag

Tag

4. Continue tagging around your tutu skirt placing the tacks 2-3 inches apart and at least 1 inch in from the edge of the tutu ruffle.

Tack all around your tutu

Tack all around your tutu

5. Continue pulling down 1-2 layers and repeat steps 3 & 4 until you reach the top layer.

6. For the top layer, “shoot” the tags from the bottom upward (so the smaller end of the tag is towards the top of the tutu.

7. Hold your tutu upside down and right side up and check for “danglers” (pieces that dangle down).   If there are pieces hanging down, tack them in place so all is nice and flat and secure.

8.  Celebrate because you re done!!!

Next up, the hooped layer…

Tacking Your Tutu: Part 2, Using a “Tagging Gun “to Tack Your Tutu

Monday, August 22nd, 2011

…Getting Ready

Here is Part 2 of our “Tacking Your Tutu” series designed to aid you to get that perfect silhouette for your Classical or Bell style tutu skirt.  You can review Part 1 here.

The Supplies

  • A tagging gun is the tool used by retailers to apply price labels to garments.  Our favorite is the Dennison Fine Fabric Gun.  These guns are very sturdy.  The fine needle model uses a smaller needle and, therefore, causes less damage to fabrics.   These guns are generally priced at around $30.00 and are available from retail suppliers.
Tagging Gun

Tagging Gun

  • Fasteners for fine guns are the pieces (we just call them “tags”) that are fed into the gun and “shot” through your tutu layers.  You need to make sure to get nylon tags if you need to color them to match your tutu.   The clear nylon variety takes up a nylon friendly dye (like Rit or Jacquard Acid Dyes) very well.
  • Dye if you need it.  A few examples are Jacquard Acid Dyes (Don’t worry!  The “acid” is just vinegar)
Jacquard Acid Dyes

Jacquard Acid Dyes

…or Rit Dye.  The Rit website has a lovely online color guide that is very helpful if you need to mix an exact color.

Dying your Tags

  • Dye your tags using a quick and easy stovetop method.  Follow the instructions for your nylon friendly dye.  These tags can take up dye very well and very quickly. Time in the dye bath depends on how concentrated you mix your dye and how dark a color you need.  We suggest that you just dip your tags briefly, rinse and check.  Repeat as needed.  You will quickly get a feel for how long the tags need to be in the bath.

Stovetop Dye Instrux

Here is a good example of a Classical Tutu that is hooped and tacked in the “Pancake” style:

aura Gilbreath, Soloist, Pacific Northwest Ballet, © Angela Sterling

Laura Gilbreath, Soloist, Pacific Northwest Ballet, Photo © Angela Sterling

Next Up in our Tips & How To:  Step by Step Tacking

Tacking Your Tutu: Part 1, Preparation

Tuesday, August 9th, 2011

When it comes to creating the perfect silhouette for your classical or bell style tutu, there are a number of factors to consider: how you cut your layers, the fabrics that you use, and so on.  However, “tacking” your tutu is one step which makes a grand difference (and entrance)!

Class Act Tutu's "Pancake" Style Classical Tutu Skirt
Photo:  Laura Gilbreath, soloist, Pacific Northwest Ballet © Angela Sterling

Whether you have made your own tutu, purchased your tutu or have a tutu in need of repair, “tacking” is a skill that you need to have if you are working with Classical or Bell Style tutus.  “Tacking” is when you secure the layers of your tutu together.  This keeps your ruffles from flying when you dance and helps to shape your tutu.  There are many different methods to use.  We thought it would be fun to share some of the tricks we have learned through the years.

We will be adding to our “Tips & How-To” blog category some of our favorite ideas for tacking your tutu.  First up is preparing your tutu for tacking.

Preparation:  Steam & Flatten

Although some may consider these steps optional, we think that preparing your tutu by gently steaming and pressing–or flattening your tutu is worth the time.  A tutu that is shaped and flattened before tacking is begun is much easier to work with and results in a better finished product.

  • To steam your tutu,  first test your fabric. Nylon melts and, if your steamer or iron is too hot, you can damage your tutu.  If you are using an iron, use the lowest setting that can provide steam.
  • Straighten, shape and steam the layers of your tutu one by one.  The idea is to straighten the layers so that they lie straight out from the tutu panty.  Visualize the spokes of a wheel.

Tutu Tacking Diagram

HINT: If you are making your own tutu, it is much easier to attach your tutu layers if you gently steam each layer where it is gathered before it is sewn on.

  • To press, lie your tutu topside down, arrange the layers neatly, and place heavy books all around the tutu.  Leave overnight.
Flattening Your Tutu with Books

Flattening Your Tutu with Books

As always, if you have any tips you would like to share—or would like us to share, just let us know!

Next Up:  Using a “Tagging Gun” to tack your tutu

Tagging Gun

Quick Tip: From the Costume Shop at Pacific Northwest Ballet (PNB)

Wednesday, June 29th, 2011

In 2006, Fleming Halby (then director of Pacific Northwest Ballet’s Seattle school) staged the only surviving scene from August Bournonville’s “Konservatoriet”. Class Act Tutu was honored to provide the white romantic tutu skirts for that performance.

PNB School's "Konservatoriet "  ©Rex Trainter

PNB School's "Konservatoriet " ©Rex Trainter

The staging of this piece has always provided a great inspiration to us in how to create a beautiful classic look reminiscent of the early French ballet.   We were lucky to get to spend some time in the PNB costume shop learning how Victoria McFall created this lovely vision.   Here is what we learned.

What you need:
1. White Leotard
2. White Romantic Style Tutu skirt
3. Satin Ribbon
4. Sheer Fabric for Sleeves
5. Nude Elastic

The Leotard
• Start with a camisole style leotard. Remove the straps and replace them with nude elastic.
• Create a pattern for an off the shoulder sleeve with a gusset. Here are some views of PNB’s sleeve and pattern:

Sleeve with Gusset

Sleeve with Gusset

Sleeve and Pattern

Sleeve and Pattern

PNB Sleeve Pattern

PNB Sleeve Pattern

• Here you can find instructions for making your own pattern for gussets.
• Stitch your sleeve onto the leotard

Sleeve with gusset sewn to leotard

Sleeve with gusset sewn to leotard

The Skirt
• Start with a romantic style tutu skirt. PNB used Class Act Tutu’s Romantic Style 5-Layer skirt in a mid-calf length.
• Edge stitch a nice satin ribbon onto the waistband at the top and the bottom. Victoria used pale blue and white for Konservatoriet.

Satin Waistband & Bow

Satin Waistband & Bow

• Sew down a faux bow if desired.

This idea can be used for many different tutu looks and combining a professional quality tutu skirt with an inexpensive leotard can stretch your costume budget.

Quick Tip: Get more out of your tutus!

Sunday, June 19th, 2011

Your tutu bodice and skirt separates should be attached together after they have been fit.  This is essential so that there is no gaping during performance.  Here is a great method of fastening your pieces that will make mixing, matching and sharing costumes quick and easy.

Secure your bodice to your skirt using buttonhole elastic for the tabs. Place small, flat buttons on the inside of the waistband. These buttons and “buttonholes” can be placed all around the tutu skirt and bodice. That way, skirts & bodices can be easily switched.

Buttonhole Elastic

You can use this technique to create new looks by mixing and matching your tutu bodices and tutu skirts.  You can also use this technique if sizing needs to be switched between casts.

The Creation of a Black Swan Tiara

Sunday, May 1st, 2011
Black Swan Design Sketch CJDLDESIGN

Black Swan Design Sketch ©CJDLDESIGN

We love sharing the work that goes on behind the scenes in dance and theater and for our clients.  One of our favorite artists/designers is Christine Joly de Lotbiniere of CJDLDESIGN. Whether it be masks, fabric dyeing & painting, tiaras or tutu embellishment (and more), Christine can do it all!

Here is a post Christine did depicting some of the process involved in the  making of a Black Swan Tiara that she is creating for a Class Act Tutu client.  We cannot wait to unveil the finished product (along with the Black Swan Tutu that is in the works as well).  Keep watching!

1. Using a thermoplastic coated synthetic felt, (which starts out flexible and becomes stiffer the more it’s heated) and a heat-gun, I shape the material in a curve. Once it’s formed and cooled I draw the design of the crown. Steel wire is then bent to conform to the design and sewn down by hand.

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2. A second layer is formed to mimic the first. This surface layer includes recessed holes which will hold the swarovsky crystals. The design is then traced and cut out with a sharp blade.

2

3. The second layer is glued down over the first wired one. Multiple pins keep the layers sandwiched together.

3

4. Fitted onto a custom hammered copper tiara base, which I designed and built to fit the crown, I apply multiple layers of a pigmented wood filler (similar to but without the weight of gesso), sanding between each layer until the desired thickness is reached. I use an assortment of small rasps and files to carve and smooth the shape.

4

5. I work on the angle of the crown as it sits on the tiara base. This is left to dry/air cure for 2 to 3 days.

5

6. Size and silver leaf are applied over the crown and a portion of the base.

6

7. Pigmented varnish is then applied to tint the tiara to a gunmetal color. Swarovsky crystals are then affixed as are custom made jewels and settings. Not complete yet, copper combs will need to be soldered onto the tiara base which then will be wrapped in silk velvet ribbon dyed to match my customers haircolor.

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This Black Swan Tiara can be purchased from CJDLDesign.

If you would like to see more of Christine’s design work along with some fun costume, art and fashion posts, view  CJDLDESIGN’s Facebook page  for more of Christine’s amazing work.

If you are interested in custom tiaras, tutu embellishment or other professional quality costume design contact us.